November 17, 2004 - Motorcycle Skills


The course... "Simple, just follow the arrow, heh, heh, heh..."

Start


The Traffic Light Test


The First Narrow Street Test


The Second Narrow Street Test


The Narrow Bridge Test


The Wildlife Hazard Test


The Uneven Surface Test

The final step to "translate" my US license into a Japanese motorcycle license was a skills test. My multilingual friend Christian came along to help translate for me. Christian is Chinese, he speaks perfect English, Cantonese, "rough" Mandarin, and "rough" Japanese. Upon arriving at the test center I filled out more paper work - if they were to assemble all of the documents I've filled out since landing in Japan it would create a pile the size of a New York phone book. As it is, every office within a 50 mile radius of Kobe has a treatise on my life; my blood type, eating habits, behavioral anomalies...

Along with the paperwork was a map of the course. After a bit of confused discussion with the licensing official, Christian told me that I would have to memorize the course. Yeah, right. We both had a good laugh over that one. We watched a video that showed people driving around the course. After the video I had an hour and a half to walk the course and commit it to memory.

Christian took off to visit an organic tofu factory that he had done some sort of work-study / home-stay with last summer. I set out to memorize the course. The cruelest obstacle was "The Narrow Bridge Test." A raised, foot wide, 30 foot long balance beam. You were to ride the length of the beam without falling off. If you fell off; you failed, test over. Beyond that there was "The Slalom Test" and "The Narrow Street Test." Hit a cone? Test over. Too slow? Test over. Too fast? Test over.

As I was walking the course I was able to mime a few questions to the other victims, Japanese, who were out stumbling around with me. Their mimed answers helped to fill in some of the finer points of Japanese traffic laws, most notable was that almost all intersections are of the "yield but don't stop" variety. All told I must have walked about 6 miles in circles.

Christian returned at 12:50 and the bikes came out of the garage. There was a small Harley style Kawasaki that I presumed was for my test, 400cc and under, and a couple of Kawasaki tankers that I guessed were 1000cc bikes for the "large" bike skills test.

All of the Japanese victims disappeared into the building to watch another video and I, the lone Gaijin, was asked to suit up. Just like that? No warm up? Jesus.

They indicated that I was to mount one of the 1000cc tankers. What? I looked at Christian, he turned to the official and iterated that I was here for the "400cc" test. After a bit of discussion Christian told me that the tankers were the 400cc bikes. They looked like they weighed about 600 pounds. Oh Jesus.

Apparently I wouldn't be given any time to get used to the bike. Just fire it up and go. Ooooh, Jesus.

I got on the tanker and tried to rebuild my shattered confidence by mumbling positive affirmations to myself. Out on the track I made it through the first few turns and sets of obstacles before thinking "Holy shit! I'm doing it! I'm taking the test! Where do I turn next?" This thought totally shattered any calm I had possessed up until that moment. From that point on it was a struggle to keep my nerves from forcing an error.

I completed the course without hitting anything or falling over. After I got off the bike a man ran up to it and moved it back about 15 centimeters. He then looked at me with scorn and pointed to two upright posts. Sweeping his arm back and forth he communicated that I was supposed to park behind the posts.

"Well, that's a shitter." I thought. I wonder how many other little blunders had occurred. Perhaps I have another skills test in my future.

One of the officials walked us back to the center talking intently with Christian. He gathered that the official was saying that I needed to be careful because Japanese driving laws were stricter than the laws in other countries - a statement unsupported by all of the maniacal drivers I've seen terrorizing the streets. Perhaps the official was really saying "You have to be careful, the Japanese turn into maniacs when they get behind the wheel."

Although he wasn't sure, Christian thought that the conversation indicated that I had passed the skills test. We were to come back to the center in an hour. Christian had a plan for how to best spend our recess...
 November 17, 2004 - Tofu Skills


A short walk from the licensing center is a small organic tofu factory that Christian had worked at. We used our break to stop in for a late lunch and a tour of the factory (Christian had visited earlier while I was memorizing the course).

Christian's host mother treated me to an exceptional 5 course meal that featured organic tofu cooked into in all sorts of fabulous dishes. Highlights included a bun sized ball of layered tofu skin, - moist, delicate and delicious - a soup made of fresh tofu milk, and a salad with crispy tofu croutons. Remarkable. Through Christian, I was able to inform my host that it was the finest tofu I had ever eaten. Before leaving we filled our packs with boxes of fresh tofu to take home.

For the next stop, Christian took me over to the tofu plant which was located a few steps from the restaurant.

The most notable feature of the tofu produced at this plant is that it is created from organic soybeans grown in Japan.

There are many steps to making tofu, which Christian sort of breezed through (we were in a bit of a hurry to get back to the licensing center). The basic process, if I have it correct,* begins by extracting a "milk" from the beans. The process of extraction involves grinding the beans to a pulp, sending it through a crazy looking pressurizing contraption, and straining off the juice.

After the milk has been separated from the pulp, it is stored in the keg shaped containers to the right.

Nigari(?) is then added to coagulate the milk into a paste. The result is "young tofu" which is somewhat lumpy and has a thickness similar to soft ice cream.

The "young tofu" can be compressed to create the "soft" and "firm" tofu that we are familiar with in the States.


The compressed tofu is sent through this really cool automated cutting and packaging machine. The machine spits out little boxes of tofu, ready for distribution.




*I am guilty of oversimplifying and quite possibly misrepresenting the tofu making process... For instance, a whole lot of boiling and rinsing steps go in there somewhere.
 November 17, 2004 - Architecture Skills, Tadao Ando's 4x4 House

Following the tofu factory we returned to the licensing center. I was informed that I had passed. After a couple more hours of paperwork, pictures and shuffling around I had a newly minted license in my hands. Yippee!!

On our way home, to celebrate, Christian and I got off the train near Akashi bridge. We stopped at a quickie mart for a couple of tall boys and hit the beach (to check out Tadao Ando's 4x4 House).

Much to our surprise an exact mirror of the house was being built right next door. Strange. The only discernable difference was that the new version seemed to have siding rather than raw concrete.

While we were there, in an effort to prove the new house was the same, one of the workers walked next door to pull a few measurements off the existing building before returning to his task on the new building.
Apart from feeling that the new construction seemed to add a tackiness to the existing home, I was very taken by the structure. Simple, arresting, and sitting on an amazing chunk of property.

The house is situated on a narrow strip of beach between a major rail line (I hope it has good sound insulation) and the mouth of the Japanese Inland Sea. Looking across the beach you have a view of the water, Akashi bridge, passing boats, and Akashi Island. Stunning.

The neighborhood was charming and sported, among other things, a barn on stilts and a house built of spent shipping containers. I wonder if the neighbors are concerned that Ando's contemporary architecture is ruining the character of their 'hood...

You can find the plans, sections, and some nice photos of the 4x4 house in an Architectural Record article.

A pleasant finish to a long day... Nice view eh?

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